Well it had to happen at some point. After 71 consecutive days of boondocking we exchanged our freedom and wide open views for long showers and an endless supply of electricity. Our first taste of campground life since the end of 2015 was at the lovely Sand Hollow State Park in the very southwest corner of Utah.
I feel like I should have some deep words of reflection, or at the least some wisdom, to share about our longest stretch of boondocking ever. Truthfully though, I am struggling to come up anything inspiring or revolutionary in nature. Maybe because everything there is to be written about boondocking has already been said by countless bloggers and travelers. Or maybe boondocking simply no longer feels like the great accomplishment it once did.
In the early days of boondocking we were constantly worried about tank management and power usage. These days we just roll with it and do our normal thing — which for us means near constant computer use and charging during the day, a few hours of TV at night, occasional furnace use, and three homemade meals a day that make a lot of dishes to wash. The biggest difference between our boondocking life and the times when we have full hook-ups is that we take less frequent, shorter showers when living off-the-grid. Other than that we don’t give boondocking much extra thought or effort.
Part of this relaxed attitude stems from our decision to not stretch our tank space. Yup, I said not stretch it, which is the exact opposite advice most boondocking “experts” give. For us boondocking is about the freedom that comes from getting out of crowded, noisy campgrounds, the feeling of immersing ourselves in nature, and the excitement of discovering new places off the beaten path. What it is not about is living like backpackers eating only packaged prepared meals, recycling every bit of water we use, and priding ourselves on taking a single 30 second shower once a week. It’s just not what we want from this lifestyle.
So we stay in one place until the tanks need to be emptied…then we find a dump station. For our typical usage and tank sizes (39 fresh, 39 grey, 36 black) that usually means a week, although we can go 10 days if pressed. I’m not saying that we don’t try to conserve water, because with no conservation at all we can easily fill the grey tank in four days, but we no longer torture ourselves with thoughts that if we just did this, or this, or this differently, we could avoid dumping for a few more days.
I guess what I’m trying to say is that while 71 days of living for free outside of campgrounds was an accomplishment, the very best part was that it didn’t feel like we were sacrificing or altering our normal lifestyle. Does that mean we’ve mastered the art of boondocking? Who knows, but it does mean that we got to call some incredible places home during the first two months of year (and as an extra bonus we saved a ton of money).
Enough about all that though, let’s talk about Sand Hollow State Park. This scenic state park is located just outside St. George, Utah about an hour drive from Zion National Park. It has three separate camping areas; one with paved sites offering full hook-ups for $28/night, one with partial hook-ups over by the off-roading area, and the primitive camping area by the beach.
The full hook-ups area is situated on a hillside with the top loop offering views of the lake, the bottom loop offering views of a sage brush filled meadow, and the middle loop offering views of your neighbors. We ended up in the middle loop. No complaints though as our site was generous in size and perfectly level. We’re probably lucky that we even got a site for the whole week since the campground was nearly full every night of our stay.
We entertained ourselves throughout the week by biking, hiking and kayaking around the park. There are no official trails here, but we managed to bike a loop around the lake (that may have involved ignoring a “No Trespassing sign” and climbing over a fence), found a hiking trail behind yet another fence on top of a bluff overlooking the lake (I swear we’re not purposely trying to break the rules), and did some more biking around the campground.
We also got out on the lake for some excellent kayaking one warm afternoon. This is a very popular boating and fishing lake. We even saw a sailboat!
For our one big adventure outside of the campground we drove up to the Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park. When we previously visited this area a few years ago we never made it over to Kolob Canyons, and I was determined to get us there this time around. It was only a 35 minute drive from Sand Hollow, but it felt like a world away.
As soon as we turned onto the main park road and saw the towering red cliffs ahead of us we knew this was going to be good. It was so majestic, so breathtaking, so…Zion. Since we got a late start and didn’t arrive until early afternoon our activity for the day was to hike the relatively short Taylor Canyon Trail. This 5-mile out and back hike travels along the bottom of a deep canyon cut into sheer rock walls. For much of the way it follows Taylor Creek offering up glimpses of the surrounding rocks. It had rained the night before and a shroud of clouds hung over the towering rocks making us feel like we were discovering some sort of hidden world.
After a gradual uphill hike through the canyon the trail ended at an impressive double alcove cut into the rock.
We didn’t linger long as it was getting late in the day and the chilly air was becoming a bit uncomfortable. Hard to believe that only days before we had been enjoying temperatures in the mid-80s while kayaking and now it was a good 40 degrees colder! Utah weather in the spring sure is fickle.
After the hike we drove up the top of the park road to take in the views. Photos simply don’t do this view justice.
All in all it was an excellent first week in Utah, a good end to our boondocking streak, and a reminder of how much we love this part of the country. Can’t wait to spend another month and half here!
20 comments
Excellent post! We thought about heading up to Southern Utah when we left Death Valley last week but were concerned about the temperatures so opted to head south to Benson, AZ. You’re spot on with the “second nature” of boondocking. We’ve had full hookups for less than seven days since New Years and haven’t missed them in the least. :-) We even managed an eleven day stretch in Death Valley before needing to dump! ;-)
Eleven days! That’s a good long stretch! The weather has been perfect here in far southwest Utah, but we’re about to head into the mountains where we will be braving cold temperatures (and maybe some snow).
71 days .. Wow! Lovely pics too!
Thanks Bob!
Thanks for the present views of the park….A few years ago we stayed there because a tech in Wenatchee left screws out of our shroud in the engine area…The excellent RV dealer in St George sent us there while we had to wait a week for parts on our way to the North Rim Grand Canyon.
The rangers understood our issue and let us move to a different site when we had to.
We would have never thought of visiting the park until this happened. Sure glad we did!
Large sites, nice beaches and it just turned out to be a good part of an adventure.
Upriverdavid
Glad you liked the park as much as we did. Further proof that sometimes even mishaps and breakdowns can lead to good adventures :)
Hi Amanda:
I really love your approach to boondocking, enjoying the freedom and space without stressing over your usage of tanks. I’m aware that finding dump stations is generally pretty easy to do but what about filling your water tank? If the dump station doesn’t have water then how do you go about finding a spigot to fill your tank?
Do you find your bicycle seats to be comfortable….well, at least reasonably comfortable? The few bicycles we have been on the seats are really quite uncomfortable and that has kept us from wanting to get bicycles for our travels. Any suggestions?
I always enjoy your posts. Thank you for all you share!
Barbara
We’ve only had a few instances where there was no potable water at a dump station. When that happens we sometimes look for another dump station, a campground with water, or a filtered water station where we can fill jugs and then dump into the fresh water tank.
We replaced our bike seats pretty early on. The original ones were very uncomfortable. I can’t recall exactly what ones we bought, but they both came from Amazon and are made of gel foam pads. We still get sore behinds after really long rides, but nothing that compares to how it use to be. Hope that helps!
Thrilled to learn about Sand Hollow. Weve been to Zion many times, but missed Sand Hollow. Will have to rectify that soon.
It’s a really nice park. Definitely check out the primitive camping area near the beach. If it wasn’t raining when we arrived we might have ended up over there.
Great reasons for boondocking; I love having space around us.
another great article for sure.
have you guys thought about installing a compost toilet and combining the black and gray tanks? I follow Jason and Niki Wynns, (gonewiththewynns.com) and they love their Natures Head composting toilet, so much so they are going to use it on board the catamaran sailboat they are looking to buy.
then you get a large gray tank, which is easier to dischage if needed, vs black and gray..
just wondering and thanks again.
carl
ps heading to florida this coming saturday for week at Universal and to bring 2005 30 ft classic airstream home. We are planning to get out in four or so years, with one kid in college NCSU and one heading to Appalachian State this fall it a day by day thing..
We have thought about a composting toilet. Unfortunately, the size and configuration of our bathroom won’t allow it. When someone make one that fits in our bathroom we’ll be all over it!
Congratulations on your new Airstream! Wishing you many, many years of happy travels :)
I’ve been to Zion before, but your photos make me want to see it again. Gorgeous photos. Do you often have the chance to ride your bikes or are most of the surfaces to rough? Thanks for the nice blog. I really enjoy hearing about all your adventures. Happy Trails.
I think Zion is one of the places that you could visit over and over and never get sick of it! We ride our bike quite a bit. We both have mountain bikes so we can go on pretty much any surface. It’s usually our physical abilities (or lack of) that limit where we can ride :)
With no conservation at all, your gray tank lasts 4 days? How many showers is that? We can hardly do 2 days, and that’s with conservation. Obviously we’re doing something wrong and have a lot to learn!
That’s with two super quick, navy-style showers each. I guess I don’t count short showers as conservation because we’re so used to doing it that way.
Oh, and gorgeous photos! We’ll be there the first of May and can’t wait. I hope it’s not too hot.
I saw in one of your posts that tou have a dog. What do you do with the dog when you are kayaking, biking, long hikes? We are about to take off for an extended North American trip in our XP 1 and the dog goes with us everywhere but we are restricted because dogs are not allowed on trails in Natl Parks and not even allowed in vehicles on the White Rim trail.
We actually no longer travel with a dog. Sadly he passed away over 2 years ago, but he did travel with us for awhile and it was challenging on times. In fact, back then we didn’t have bikes or kayaks for that reason. He was fine staying in the trailer by himself for short periods of time if we wanted to go on a hike in a national park, out to eat, to visit a museum, etc, but for the most part we either brought him with us or didn’t do it. One tip for visiting NPS is to stay just outside the park on national forest land so you can hike with your dog and drive into the park a few times. Also, I would look into kennels. I have seen lots of them in towns near national parks. Good luck.